Every Wine Everywhere All At Once
Greek white, Luberon red
The portfolio of the long established Halpern Enterprises wine agency reads like a who’s who of the top end of the wine world. And the producers they represent aren’t recognizable wine royalty, they’re either from one of the most sought after regions, or a quiet special project of someone who is. Like a glass of Champagne, if one is offered a chance to attend one of their tastings, one takes it.
So I found myself at the Halpern Premier Cru tasting at the end of last month, with a problem. There were too many iconic wines to try and not enough time. Some kind of triage would have to be employed. In the end, I did a full flight of the “Grand Whites Gallery” and dipped in and out of the tables and bars. At the big whites David Butterfield’s 2022 Meursault Villages ($174) was my sentimental favourite, having tasted with him last year in Beaune. But among all the three figure price tag big hitters, the humble Jadot 2022 Mâcon Villages at $28 ($31 at the LCBO) showed very well indeed, and would make a fine companion over lunch. As would the 2023 Tiberio Trebbiano d’Abruzzo ($27).
The tasting featured wines that Halpern has in the market or will soon. I went to the trade version in the afternoon, so bumped elbows with fine dining sommeliers and restaurateurs making sure they had famous wines for the bottom of their lists. That evening their regulars would come to do the same for their personal cellars.
People are more interesting than bottles, so the highlight of the tasting was seeing the oenological power couple Ann Sperling and Peter Gamble pouring from their Niagara project Dobbin Estates. Sperling and Gamble have been involved since the Dobbin family took over the Twenty Mile bench property. Sperling poured the just released Dobbin 2022 Pinot Noir ($80). A delcious red fruit cool climate PN, ready to give the Burgundians at the next table a run for their money.
The Halpern tasting is the first in a series of big tastings lined-up this month: it’s the season. Stay tuned…
BISTRO BREAK
If you are not already a subcriber to author, broadacaster and diarist Laura Calder’s Substack LAURA CALDER: A Place At My Table, you should be. Exhibit A: this charming and informative post on the beloived, yet underappreciated, bistro table: When A Table Is Not A Table? Laura, who (full disclosure) is a friend, has moved back to Paris recently and the posts from Canada’s foremost authority on convivial entertaining and gastronomic self-care now include reportage and good living tips from the City of Lights. Vas-y!
ICYMI
I tried an American hangover preventer and lived to tell the tale. Find out if ZBiotics can improve the morning after by clicking on To Beat The Devil.
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Hatzimichalis Alepotrypa Assyrtiko 2023
Price: $18.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: Domaine Hatzimichalis
Country: Greece
Region: Atalanti Valley
Appellation: Atalanti Valley PGI
Grapes: Assyrtiko
Alcohol by Volume: 14%
Sugar Content: 2 grams per litre
Here is a sophisticated white from the middle of Greece at a very welcoming price. Assyrtiko is best known as the white grape from the windswept volcanic island of Santorini, where it tends to make very lean mineral whites. This Hatzimichal version shows a reserved richness, with citrus acidity and a bit of a bitter edge: grapefruit. A little reductive at first, the wine opens up with a few swirls in the glass and reveals a herbal note.
This is a summer grill wine, ready for chicken or shrimp, or mezze dips to start a party.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/domaine-hatzmichalis-assyrtiko-alepotrypa-vny-27182
M. Chapoutier La Ciboise Luberon 2022
Price: $14.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: M. Chapoutier
Country: France
Region: Provence
Appellation: Luberon AOC
Grapes: Grenache and Syrah (%NA)
Alcohol by Volume: 14.5%
Sugar Content: 3 grams per litre
Chapoutier doesn’t reveal the precentage split between Grenache and Syrah in La Ciboise. My guess is it’s close to 50-50: look for cherry, then blackfruit and a touch of white pepper. It’s long way from L’Hermitage to the Luberon, and this is a rich and juicy wine, with silky fruit tannins - it’s made in entirely in concrete.
The value is extraordinary; I wonder if there are consumers who look past it because of the low price point? I might have if were from another house. There is one caveat: to enjoy this wine you have to be able tolerate a touch of acetone-scented volatile acidity. I like a seasoning of this classic Rhône nail polish note. For me it actually accentuates the lush fruit notes. Others disagree. If you’re not sure, for $15, it’s still worth the risk.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/m-chapoutier-la-ciboise-luberon-43441