Getting Back
Old Vine Chenin | Bordeaux Ordinaire
August 15 is the Feast of the Assumption, the day Mother Mary was assumed into Heaven without the inconvenience and discomfort of corporeal death. Before global warming turned almost all of Europe into a sauna every summer, vignerons would hope their crops would be assumed into the upcoming harvest without the inconvenience and discomfort of bad weather from this day forward. So, the Ides of August are a time to look forward towards the work ahead in the fall, with or without a measure of anxiety.
Today, I am looking forward to getting back. I have two trips in September that are returns. It will be interesting to see how things are, with the wines and people who make them, in both places since I was there last.
I've had a run of first time, discovery trips in the last few years, where I have been lucky to travel to places I hadn't been before. In that case the challenge is to soak up as much as I can to get an overall impression of the place, wines and people. On a return visit, there's a chance to compare experience and dive a little bit deeper. Or, at least know which questions to ask.
First, I am going to Bolzano in the Alpine Italian region of Alto-Adige, or Südtirol. This small area of what used to be Austria, has transformed itself into a premium wine region. When I was last there in 2019 things were really heating up. I will be interested to see how things are after the Pandemic, the cost of living crisis and current wine demand slump... not to mention the chaos of the Trump tariff trade wars.
Then, I am going to South Africa, where I haven't been since 2012. Thirteen years ago, things were really heating up in South Africa, too. The Swartland Independents were making this "new" region cool, and The Cape was starting to export some pretty fancy wines. This has, of course, continued, but South Africa had a particularly bad pandemic and is a particular target of the Trump trade wars. South African winemakers are resilient; I am interested to see how they've managed to survived and I am interested to see what kind of wines are put in front of me at what price point.
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WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
This week is all about value with a bargain South African white and an under-the-radar Right Bank Bordeaux red…
MAN Free Run Chenin Blanc 2024
Price: $14.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: MAN Family Wines
Country: South Africa
Region: Western Cape
Appellation: Cape Coastal
Grapes: Chenin Blanc
Alcohol by Volume: 13.5%
Sugar Content: 3 grams per litre
The South Africans have more Chenin Blanc under vine than anyone else, principally because it was originally planted to make brandy that supplied ships going back and forth around The Cape. Now, they make more Chenin Blanc wine than anyone else, which means there is enough of a critical mass of production to find a diversity of styles. The MAN Free Run Chenin runs in the direction of a crisp and somewhat aromatic white, closer to a Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc than a Chardonnay.
MAN is a wine project made up of three winemakers (two are brothers) from two established family wineries, where they can go a bit off piste, source good looking fruit and make well priced, consumer friendly wines. South Africans, who live and die on exports, seem particularly good at concept wines and wineries that deliver a particularly high quality to price ratio.
Look for green apple and lime citrus, with grassy notes on the nose. Well chilled on a warm evening, this is an easy aperitif or party wine.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/man-free-run-steen-chenin-blanc-2017-126847
Château Les Tourelles 2020
Price: $17.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: Darriet Wines
Country: France
Region: Bordeaux
Appellation: Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux AOC
Grapes: Merlot (80%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20%)
Alcohol by Volume: 13%
Sugar Content: 3 grams per litre
Is Bordeaux the Cadillac of luxury wine brands? Once the King of the Road, now mostly forgotten and ignored? Maybe a bit; I have to remind myself to look over on the lower shelves of the Bordeaux aisle at my local store. I have to remind myself, too, that Bordeaux makes more wine than all the other French regions put together. By sheer volume, it must make many underrated and over looked wines. This five year old from Cadillac on the Right Bank is one of them.
The Les Tourelles is exceptional for it’s distinct cherry note, almost like a dry kirsch. It’s lovely, soft and round in the mouth, and finishes off into woodland berries. There’s still tannic structure, but it silky and easy going down. In cold months, it would want a Sunday roast. In summer time it will take just about any barbecued meat or vegetable.
I was in Bolzano last year, if I may offer a restaurant recommendation Tandoori Home Food on Via della Roggia, 22, 39100 Bolzano (I ate there twice) was a delicious break from my regular consumption of wiener schnitzel and Knödel. Look forward to reading your report on the region.
Grazie! Or danke. I am likely on a tight leash on my visit, but if we have some free time, that sounds like fun and maybe a good pairing with Pinot Bianco.