Hiberlibation
Douro White | Romagna Red
Of all of Malcolm Gladwell’s insights into human behaviour, the one that sticks with me at this time of year is from Outliers (2008). For reasons that now elude me, he describes medieval peasants in Burgundy who spent most of the winter in bed. To preserve energy, and scarce food, they essentially spent the cold and dreary months under the covers.
At four o’clock in the afternoon these days, when it’s time to walk my dog over the frozen tundra that was a few weeks ago a pleasant green park, I think of the peasants with no small amount of envy. I’m fine with a morning coffee in the sparkle of sunshine off snow, but the dimming of the December day makes hibernation seem like a sensible option.
Still, we are not peasants, and food is not scarce, if not always distributed equitably. Also, we have wine to keep us warm and out of bed at least long enough to have a meal and a glass. But, are there some wines that are better for keeping warm on cold winter nights; wines for hiberlibation?
No. They’re all good. Take a page from Diogo Campilho at Aveleda and have a Vinho Verde with your turkey or octopus. Have a glass of light red with dinner (Gamay from Niagara or Beaujolais), and then a glass of something heavier, like a Côtes-du-Rhone or a Nero d’Avolo from Sicily with a bit of cheese by the fire or TV after.
Take warmth however you like, however you can. And then crawl into bed well fed and watered.
NEW WRITING AT THE HUB
My latest wine column at The Hub, ‘What to ask for when asking for wine for Christmas’ is a kind of gift guide, except it’s a gift to me. Or, you. More precisely, it’s a guide, as a wine lover, to get friends and family to get you wine and wine related things this holiday. This includes advice on getting wine you like, without being too specific:
For a modest wine gift, ask for a broad category of wine. I suggest Champagne because it comes in a wide spectrum of pricing, and the appellation gives whatever is bought a minimum guarantee of quality. Chianti Classico is another example of an appellation that makes a guarantee of quality, whether it’s priced at $20 or $200 a bottle.
There’s more about how to get a whole case of wine, as well as books and hardware that can be suggested. Read it all here or at the link below.
https://thehub.ca/2025/12/06/what-to-ask-for-when-asking-for-wine-for-christmas/
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WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
Grafite Branco 2023
Price: $20.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: Churchill’s Estates
Country: Portugal
Region: Douro
Appellation: Douro
Grapes: Rabigato, Viosinho, Côdega (% NA)
Alcohol by Volume: 13%
Sugar Content: 2 grams per litre
Johnnie Graham is from the old Port making family, and Churchill’s, established in 1981, is his personal project. The the winery’s name conjures images of cigar smoke and goblets of port after dinner, they also make this zippy white blend made from indigenous grapes from their Douro vineyards, that’s landed at the LCBO Vintages.
What’s fun about the new generation of Portuguese white wines, like the Churchill’s Grafite, is that the country missed the wide planting of “international” grapes (basically Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc), and sends out whites made from highly localized indigenous grapes. In this case Rabigato, Viosinho and possibly Côdega. I’m not sure about the last one because I found one description with it, and one without. Since I’d never heard of any of them, I’m relatively confident most MJ Wine Box readers won’t be particularly moved whether there’s Côdega in the Grafite or not. It tastes good at a reasonable price.
I put the Grafite on aromatic side of the white wine spectrum, closer to Sauvignon or very dry Pinot Blanc. But there’s good lemon-lime citrus and green apple fruit under a herbal cover and lively mineral acidity. It wants seafood, or cream based dishes. And makes a fine aperitif with salty snacks. Save the cigars for later.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/churchill-s-estates-grafite-branco-45408
Nespoli Prugneto Sangiove Superiore 2022
Price: $17.00 until January 4, 2026 (normally $20)
Channel: LCBO General List
Producer: Poderi dal Nespoli
Country: Italy
Region: Emilia-Romagna
Appellation: Romagna DOC
Grapes: Sangiovese
Alcohol by Volume: 13.5%
Sugar Content: 4 grams per litre
I am aware of some of the mechanics that put particular wines on the shelves of our provincial liquor monopoly. I know a bit about how the “control” part of how the LCBO works, but I’m still a bit fuzzy on the why. As in, why this fairly exotic red from the Emilia-Romagna is in the “general list” or main shelves of the LCBO and not in Vintages section where MJ Wine Box usually hunts for bargains.
In any event the Nespoli Prugneto is being discounted 15% to $17 from $20 over the holidays, which makes it an even bigger bargain than it was before. If you’re looking for an under $20 house wine for the holidays, and like the earthy fruit forward flavour of the Sangiovese grape, you would be hard pressed to find a better fit.
The Prugneto sits on the side of black fruit Sangiovese: more blackberries than dark cherries and a note of violets. It wants food: there remain grippy tannins and it’s Sangiovese, so there’s a good amount of acidity. Since it’s from Emilia-Romagna I’ll vote lasagne (of any kind) as the appropriate pairing.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/prugneto-romagna-doc-sangiovese-superiore-31809
"No, they're all good." hahaha