For two days at the beginning of this month, I tasted wine in the Palais des Papes in Avignon for this year’s Découvertes en Vallée du Rhône as a guest of the winemakers’ consortium of the region. The venue, which was held step-up from a windowless ballroom was very grand indeed (more on that to come). Hundreds of wines were poured in both the Grande Audience hall and Grande Chapelle of the Avignon Popes.
On the way into the Grand Chapelle, once one had climbed a great sweep of medieval stone steps, opposite its entrance and facing a large courtyard, was the Fenêtre d’Indulgence. From there the Pope would transmit his benedictions to worshippers outside and below.
In English, the Window of Indulgence has a second meaning. A window of indulgence could be a limited time of pleasure. That sounds to me a lot like a good meal with good company, especially with wine. Those of us in the Christian tradition (whether a believer or not) now rarely observe anything like Lent, but we can still look forward to one or more windows of indulgence over the Easter. In fact, anyone can for any reason over the long weekend.
I’ve picked two wine recommendations below which are free for everyone in the spirit Christian sisterly and brotherly love. For fun, one’s for ham and one’s for lamb, but they could be mixed up in any way.
WORLD MALBEC DAY TURNS 15
OK, they got me. I mean Wines of Argentina. Would I be willing to taste through a bunch of Malbec’s widely available in Ontario in anticipation of Malbec World Day (today, April 17)? Well, of course I would: I’m always interested in tasting wine. And the good folks who promote Argentine wine in Canada delivered to me a box with some of the popular Malbec wines available at the LCBO.
Two, that were new to me stood out, largely because they were brands I wasn’t aware of and showed two different interpretations of Argentine Malbec terroir and winemakeing technique.
The 2023 Postales del Fin del Mundo Malbec is $12.45, on sale from $13.95 until April 27 at the LCBO. Since it’s from ‘Patagonia’ it could be said to be from a cool climate. Patagonia turns out to be a large region of Argentina, so I don’t know how close the vineyard is to any penguins, but the profile of the wine fits - there’s more red fruit than black, and it carries an Old World stule of lightness that reminds me of Cabernet Franc from the Loir Valley. This is a bistro wine Malbec that challenges stereotypes. For $12 it’s worth trying. I’d pair it with roast chicken.
The 2023 Doña Paula Estate High Altitude Malbec is $14.85, on sale from $17.85 until April 27 at the LCBO. The fruit for this wine is grown at an elevation of over 1,200 metres. Cool nights keep it fresh, but high altitude sunlight exposure got the grapes good an ripe. The Doña Paula Malbec is a red meat wine, with blackberry fruit and smoke and leather spice. It wants a burger; maybe the first one on the BBQ this spring. Good fun at a good price.
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WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
La Ferme du Mont Première Côte Côtes du Rhône 2022
Price: $19.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: Les Domaines du Mont
Country: France
Region: Southern Rhône Valley
Appellation: Côtes du Rhône
Grapes: Grenache (60%), Syrah (30%), Mourvèdre (10%)
Alcohol by Volume: 14.5%
Sugar Content: 3 grams per litre
Stéphane Vedeau makes some of the Southern Rhône Valley’s more prestigious wines, at Châteauneuf and Gigondas and the puts the same attention to detail, balance and finesse into his entry level Côtes du Rhône Première Côte wine. This must be one of the best value reds in Vintages right now.
Grenache is driving the melody of the Première Côte: easy drinking, clean and pure red fruit. Syrah lays down the bass track of touch of black fruit and violets. Mourvèrdre brings the beat with a bit of Mediterranean herbal scrub. The players are tight, but the wine is open and generous.
This the wine for a leg of lamb.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/la-ferme-du-mont-premi-rre-c-te-c-tes-du-rh-ne-2019-251645
Bachelder L’Ardoise Chardonnay 2023
Price: $25.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: Bachelder
Country: Canada
Region: Niagara
Appellation: Niagara Peninsula VQA
Grapes: Chardonnay
Alcohol by Volume: 13%
Sugar Content: 3 grams per litre
I’m not sure how he’s managed to do it, but Thomas Bachelder has slipped one of his celebrated boutique Niagara Chardonnays into the LCBO for under $30. The man is clearly a wino democrat, as the Ardoise is in direct competition wuth fancy local whites priced upwards of twice this… including some that he makes himself.
More Montrachet than Meursault, this is a fancy “Chardo” (as Bachedler often calls the grape). Stone and core fruit mix to spread with weight over the palate, seasoned judiciously with integrated wood notes. Then, it all lifts up into a Niagara limestone acdity that brings water to the mouth and begs another sip.
This is the wine for the Easter ham, or day after ham sandwich. Or both.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/bachelder-l-ardoise-niagara-chardonnay-2019-302083
