Wine Makes People
Bierzo Godello | Ventoux High
In the last couple of weeks, quite a lot of the last remaining stock of European jet fuel seems to have been spent flying the viticoltori Northern and Central Italy over to Toronto. I hope their reception has been better than the weather, which has been cold and grey. This Torontonian was certainly pleased to see them and bottles of 2020, 21 and 22 releases; they seemed like a reminder that the sun might shine again.
After last week’s Chianti Classico and Sassicaia tastings, this week brought a kind of party of a walk-around evening tasting of Veneto DOC Pinot Grigio, a proper lunch with the Vino Nobile di Montalcino DOCG, and the biggest organized Barolo and Barbaresco tasting outside of Italy. It’s been a good week.
The Barolo & Barbaresco World Opening trade show featured 166 producers from the Langhe. Each were allowed only two wines at their table, often an example of each DOCG but whatever they decided to show. Sometimes it was two different vineyards or two vintages; it varied.
What made it a superior show was time, space and matter. The trade show went from eleven in the morning to five in the afternoon, so there was lots of time go over 332 wines. Crucially, it took place in two very large exhibition halls at the 100 year old Liberty Grand, which meant there was lots of room to spread out. There were no crowds around the tables, jockeying for a clear shot into the crachoir. The vibe was relaxed.
The substance of the show was not just the selection of some of the finest wines known to humanity. It was the people. Most tables were womanned, manned or both with people from the winery. People you could talk to in between swirls and spits.
The Langhe is somewhat incredibly one of the Italian wine regions I know better than others. One of the first organized and serious overseas tasting series I attended in the 2010s was the Nebbiolo Prima series in Alba. It was a kind of trial by ordeal, with blind tastings of over 100 wines every morning, then trips out to meet winemakers at their wineries in the afternoons, culminating in some kind of long dinner with more winemakers in the evening, which invariably stretched into the night.
I was a greenhorn, and it nearly broke me. But I became very well acquainted with the Nebbiolo grape very quickly. Because I was very much at the bottom of the totem pole of international wine writers attending, my afternoon visits tended not to be with the famous producers. Or, if they were, I didn’t quite realize it at the time. I was just happy to be there, and I think I was exposed to good cross section of the Langhe winemakers.
Many of the visits were with young winemakers just starting their label, like Alessandro Rivetto. A dozen years later, he’s well established, and it fun to have seen the wine come and be recognized. In fact, there weren’t many producers at the Toronto show I knew, but I had been to several of their wineries, or their neighbours, and after subsequent visits could at least follow them when they pointed at a map.
You can’t taste wine on a screen. And wine almost always tastes better in the company of others. I’ll more to report on this recent flurry of tastings. I just wanted to remark that it was nice to remember the human touch in the world of wine.
People make wine, and wine makes people. That’s always the story: the message in the bottle.
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NEW WRITING AT THE HUB
My latest wine column at The Hub, ‘How To Survive a Crash Course in Italian Wine’, is about my enrolment in the Vinitaly International Academy wine course. I was already behind in my studies when I wrote it last week. Master Sommelier John Szabo is the Toronto instructor and invigilator. Since I consider him a friend, I am doubly sure I am in a lot trouble. The column is about my first week hitting the books…
The Chianti Classico tasting began with a masterclass taught by none other than my new pedagogical nemesis, John Szabo MS. Luckily, there was no test afterwards, but I did notice that John refused to tell me if any point from his lecture would be included in the VIA exam. The class was, as they say, granular, focusing on the 11 discrete geographical areas in the appellation, and I was only singled out to answer a question (which I got wrong) once.
Read it all here.
WINE RECOMMENDATIONS
Armas de Guerra Godello 2024
Price: $19.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: Vinos Guerra
Country: Spain
Region: Bierzo (Castilla y León)
Appellation: Bierzo DO
Grapes: Godello
Alcohol by Volume: 13%
Sugar Content: 2 grams per litre
The Iberian grape Godello is one of the low yielding white wine varieties, like Viogner in the South of France, which nearly became extinct before being rescued in the 1980s, particularly in it’s purportedly native land of Galicia, in the northwest corner of Spain. This version comes from neighbouring Bierzo, and is made simply in stainless steel to let Godello do its mineral, floral and fruit forward thing.
I see Godello as one of the subtly aromatic varieties for people (like me) who don’t always reach for that category of white wines. The Armas de Guerra in particular has a slightly oily character and a mid-palate weight, so the florals end up being just one component, and a compliment to the lemon citrus fruit, rather than the main show.
I want the Armas de Guerra Godello as an aperitif wine, preferably outside in fine weather. White anchovies and raw radishes with butter would suit it. So would grilled chicken skewers. But any snack would do.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/armas-de-guerra-godello-2024-47864
Château Pesquié Édition 1912M 2023
Price: $16.95
Channel: LCBO Vintages
Producer: Château Pesquié
Country: France
Region: Southern Rhône Valley
Appellation: Ventoux AOC
Grapes: Grenache (70%), Syrah (20%), Cinsault (10%)
Alcohol by Volume: 14.5%
Sugar Content: 3 grams per litre
Vive le Rhône! This $17 entry level red from Pesquié is as affordable as it is well made. The blend is right on the mark: big raspberry and blackberry fruit from the Grenache, a touch of meatiness and pepper from the Syrah, and a good acid lift from the Cinsault. There is a light seasoning of acetone volatile acidity just to remind us where it’s from as well a note of garrigue if the message still hadn’t come through.
This is a global warming wine. In the South of France, August of 2023 was a “red alert” record hot year. The Southern Rhône deals with the heat by adjusting their blends. When the wines are correct, they are big, but in balance and keep a freshness.
This is also a barbecue wine. It’s big enough to stand up to whatever spice or seasoning is served. It’s easy and should be shared in generous portions. Perfect for toasting the anticipated arrival of summer.
https://www.lcbo.com/en/pesqui-c-adition-1912m-ventoux-2019-636159
